Why Would Miracle Method Tub Refinishing Franchise and Other Refinishers Use Misleading Out Right Lies & Tactics to Confuse Consumers About Using Hydrofluoric HF Acid Etching Bathtubs?
Why would we go to the trouble, expense and training if HF Acid did not provide a benefit to you?
When refinishing porcelain over cast iron or enamel over steel tubs we use HF Acid Etching Bathtubs to abrade or “Etch” the surface.
This part of the process abrades the surface, as the kiln-fired surface is to hard to abrade by sanding.
This is not the case for acrylic fiberglass bathtubs, which we can easily abraded or etched by sanding.
The use of HF Acid Etching Bathtubs during bathtub refinishing also adds a deep cleaning component to the process.
Which helps to remove in bedded containment’s, like bath oils, conditioner, soaps and body oils that can prevent the coating from adhering.
The acid that works on porcelain and enamel bathtubs is hydrofluoric acid or HF Acid, the concentration we use is 10%.
Approximately 2 cups are required. Once finished and the acid has done its job, is harmlessly diluted, neutralized and washed away with water.
The HF Acid Etching Bathtubs does not harm plumbing at all, as Miracle Method claims; it will remove the plating on drains and overflows that are not chrome, so we protect these or remove them prior to application of the acid.
Is it dangerous? Not when used by a trained professional. As with all the chemicals required to refinish tub and tile, gloves, air supply, ventilation equipment and proper masking to protect other fixtures are required.
And as always be sure the company you hire has Workman’s Comp. Just ask for a “Certificate of Insurance”. Sole proprietors are not required to carry it.
So the original question begs to be answered… why does Miracle Method & other bathtub refinishing contractors mislead the public about HF Acid Etching Bathtubs?…
- Storage containment is needed to store it, which is costly
- They can’t easily ship it to their franchises.
- It’s expensive to buy.
- Adds cost to the job.
- It adds to insurance cost.
- Requires additional training and treated with respect and care of handling.
Now you know why Miracle Method and other refinisher contractors, miss leads the public about HF acid etching bathtubs and its use, to hide the fact that they are shorting you and the process.
Why would we go to the trouble, expense and training if it did not provide a benefit to you?
Using misleading information, to promote their process really ticks me off. Any intelligent person can understand the benefit of having mechanical adhesion by abrading – etching.
Tub Potion # 8 “Silane Coupling Agents” which provide “Chemical Adhesion” by attaching to the surface on a molecular level.
By utilizing Silane and HF acid will provide you with both forms of adhesion “Chemical and Mechanical“.
Now add Tub Potion # 10 polyester bonding primer, this gives you what I call triple adhesion.
This makes an incredible foundation for Tub Potion # 13 protective polyester hybrid topcoat.
It’s an aliphatic (non-yellowing) 2 component chemically harden coating, highly scratch resistant and lies flat as glass.
You’ll enjoy the look and feel of porcelain it provides and the ease of keeping your bathtub or tile looking new and enjoy extremely long lasting results. When done properly, the TubPotion process simply will not peel.
Home improvement Savannah Ga Great topic I need to spend some time understanding this more. Thanks for excellent information I was looking for this info for an upcoming project.
Home improvement Savannah Ga says
Great topic I need to spend some time understanding this more.
Thanks for excellent information I was looking for this info for an upcoming project.
My web blog – Home improvement Savannah Ga
joe perez says
I paint cars and I want to paint my bathtub, could you please let me know where I can but
HF acid. thank you.
Paul Burns says
A better solution for a DIYer is to use our TubPotion #8 Adhesion Promoter vs HF acid. You’ll get great results without the possibility of an acid burn. You can contact me via the contact form or call 301-262-6012 ask for Paul and I can get a 5 oz jug of #8 to you.
Marla Weatherson says
Misleading is one word and only has one ‘s’.
Paul Burns says
Thanks! fixed.
Connie Conner says
Paul, can you recommend someone in the Hampton Roads area for me? I did contact MM and after reading your article realize I need a different option. We have the tub and need the walls redone as well as a double kitchen sink. Ant help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Paul Burns says
I just trained a fellow in Fredricksburg, not sure if he’d be willing to go that far, but I will check. Also, he needs some time to perfect his skills.
James says
Should you still etch a tub if it’s never been refinished before ?
Paul Burns says
Hey James, while we still use etch, the use of our Silane adhesion promoter has made etching no longer necessary. In my testing, I’m getting equal results whether or not I’ve etched.
James says
Thanks for the reply, does the Silane adhesion need to be handled with the same care as HF acid when applying would I need the same level of cautiousness ?
Paul Burns says
No, the Silane is not an acid. Gloves should still be worn so not to be adsorbed into your skin. Organosilane coupling agents have been shown to dramatically improve the adhesion of polymeric resins to substrates such as glass, silica,alumina or active metals. Our Silane TubPotion #8 reacts to the tub or tile substrate, dramatically improving the bond with our coatings. I did this page on Etching as a result of other refinishers claiming that Etching is bad and harmful to the tubs plumbing, which it is not. Today with the use of Organosilane coupling agents, etching is no longer required as it once was. It’s use is optional and whether one chooses to use etch or not, no longer effects the quality of adhesion, one way or the other.
Jerry Rebel says
I would like to repaint my Weber grill. It is painted with porcelail. What % solution do you recommend and how to apply. Thanks.
Paul Burns says
For a grill you’ll need a high temp coating. Rustolem makes a nice product for painting grills, in black and off white. You’ll need to scuff up the surface and clean extremely well before applying. You won’t find HF acid sold to the general public as it can be lethal it not used correctly. HC Acid or Muriatic Acid diluted to around 10% should give you enough of an etch, be sure to remove any powder left over on the surface. Good luck, Paul Burns
Ray says
I think I have enamel over steel tub instead of porcelain over tile. I removed the white coating which was one thick coating, with citristrip and am down to the blue gray tub. It appears the tub was refinished, although perhaps the white coat was applied at the factory. Anyway there is a light haze I cannot remove. It appears to be brushed on. Where there are slight gaps I can see the shiny surface below. I would like to get down to that surface. Do you have any suggestions? I was thinking of trying ceramic oxide and felt pads with a drill attachment. Regular sandpaper does nothing, nor does methyl chloride.
Paul Burns says
I would try Rubbing Compound used to polish cars. It comes in rough, med and fine. A buffing tool is the easiest but can be done by hand. Go to a automotive paint supply house.
ray says
Is there a way to determine if I have enamel over steel instead of porcelain over cast iron tub? Here is a photo of it:
https://imgur.com/a/Mtu8wuS
I left the outside front of the tub white as the paint/enamel/epoxy whatever it is, is just fine. I did not have to protect the chrome base inside rail of the shower doors, as the Citrisstrip and SmartStrip I used to removed the coating in the tub had no effect on it.
Paul Burns says
That is a cast iron tub with porcelain fired over it. It may have been lightly etched during the refinishing process which would create the haze. I doubt you’d be able to restore the original finish. What may work is a water based concrete sealer hi-gloss, which would need to be re-applied every so often as needed. this is one I’ve used. https://www.ebay.com/i/293221236351?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293221236351&targetid=809743904305&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9007720&poi=&campaignid=6470497915&mkgroupid=80514769434&rlsatarget=pla-809743904305&abcId=1141156&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAiA5o3vBRBUEiwA9PVzaieRqM75NN_q7fUclrmKvaSkw7ApiYT8CyHC9PPiB6oj0niJn6wjjBoCQYwQAvD_BwE
Monique Warmus says
Hello,
I enjoyed your video and wonder if anyone in Raleigh, NC does your process with your products? I am working on a renovation where I would be interested in keeping an old tub. How long will painting over the tub and tile last with daily use?
Are there care instructions you recommend?
Finally, how is what you do different than what most refinishers use that etch and paint?
Thank you,
Monique
Paul Burns says
Done properly should last 15+ years, depends on the quality and the care the coating receives. For care, don’t use abrasive or harsh chemicals. Repair water drips ASAP. Any staining should occur, use a Rubbing compound to remove. Pretty much don’t do anything you wouldn’t do to your cars finish. What we do differently is I have my own product line, which is a Polyester based system vs. Epoxy primer and urethane topcoat, which is what most others use. TubPotion is a submerged coating, along with the multistep system makes for a permanent repair.
Don says
Hi Paul,
What companies in the Denver Metro (Colorado) area that you would recommend?
Thank you,
Don
Paul Burns says
Afternoon, sorry I don’t have any recommendations for your area.
Michellyn says
Thank you for this blog!
Can I order materials from you?
Very existed to refinish a cast iron tub that was given to me.
I’m located in Canada.
Thank you!!!
Paul Burns says
I emailed you info on your project.