Bathtub Refinishing Tips – Do You Know The 19 Key Considerations You May Need To Know Before Refinishing Your Bathtub or Tile Surround?
Scan through these bathtub refinishing tips to see which one’s apply to you before contacting a bathtub refinisher.
Got a quiet moment check out these bathtub refinishing tips.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 1
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Clear the bathroom of all items before the bathtub refinishing contractor arrives.
- Shower curtains.
- Toiletries.
- Towels.
- Personal hygiene products.
- Trinkets.
- Items mounted on the walls.
- Floor rugs.
This would seem to be common sense, I guessing folks don’t realize that the room must be completely masked off, or personal items will be damaged.
Thou the ventilation system pulls the over-spray out of the room. It will still leave a coating on items left in the room.
The refinisher is not there to remove your personal items.
Remove ALL items from the bathroom before arrival.
Clock left on wall got coated with over-spray. Please remove ALL items.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 2
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Leaking faucets make it impossible to refinish your fixture.
As well you don’t want to have a plumber working over a freshly done bathtub refinishing.
Repair any dripping faucets or damaged shower diverters before arrival.
*NOTE: Should you elect to have your bathtub done with the drain out PLEASE be sure to leave the plumbing attached under the tub. We must install a temporary drain while executing the prep work and we cannot do the job when the tub drain shoe waste assemble is not present.
This happens time after time forcing a reschedule.
Have any plumbing problems repaired before calling in a refinishing contractor.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 3
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When painting your bathroom walls with latex paint. You must use good prep procedure i.e. clean and scuff/sand the walls especially around any perimeter ceramic tile or surround.
We apply our blue painters tape to your surrounding wall area for masking and it pulls off your wall paint because the wall was not properly prepped when painted.
I don’t know if it’s ignorance or laziness but folks seem to believe you don’t need to clean, scuff and or sand the bathroom walls before painting and then point the finger at us, when the paint peels from masking removal?
It is “NOT” the refinisher fault, a properly prepared wall will not peel from the simple application of masking tape.
Don’t blame the refinishing contractor for poor prep before painting your walls.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 4
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Will your vanity cabinet or toilet cause a problem when it’s too close to the tub?
You may want it to be removed prior to refinishing the tub.
Hopefully you have water cut off valves installed on your vanity’s water lines and then it becomes fairly easy to remove the entire cabinet and sink together.
If not you can either turn the water off and install caps on the water pipe, then turn the water back on so it’s available during the preparation phase.
Should you be having your tile walls refinished and the tile goes around the room, the toilet tank must be removed so the coating can be applied behind it.
We can provide this service when needed.
Quality of the bathtub refinishing will suffer when another fixture is too close?
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 5
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Do you have other projects going on in the bath? what’s the best order for having your bathtub refinishing done?
Especially if you’re doing any work above the tub, chances are pretty, pretty good something will get dropped, dripped or ground in the new refinished tub, causing damage.
You should have:
- Wall board up and tile work completed.
- Have any dripping faucet or plumbing work done first.
- Floor tiles being removed? Do it before refinishing.
- Installing new floor tiles can be laid before or after refinishing is fine.
- Installing vanities or toilets should be installed after refinishing if they interfere with the refinishing by being to close.
- I actually recommend painting your bathroom’s drywall after having your tub or tile refinished. Just use some masking to protect the tile and bathtub from paint drips.
Best to have the bathtub refinishing done last.
This creates a dirt problem for us. It’s difficult to mask. Pretty much guaranteed you’ll damage the new bathtub coating, if done first.
We cannot refinish a bathtub with the walls down period. Your tile wall will be protected with masking. Walls down will force a reschedule.
We need a clean and dust free room and no other projects going on in the home that would create a dusty condition or vibration to the home.
Have any drywall dust cleaned up prior to arrival. The refinisher is not there to clean up construction mess.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 6
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Will you need the tub or tile refinishing color matched too your other bathroom fixtures?
You’ll need to decide how important this is when choosing a refinishing company. Few have the color matching expertise that we train our techs to do.
Want your bathtub matched in color to your other bath fixtures?
Here we two toned the bathtub & tile with border and base cove tile in a darker color and refinished the sink, on this project.
A very dramatic effect, this client loves purple and we love her.
* As you can see the toilet needed removing being so close during the bathtub refinishing process.
Want a custom color for your bathtub refinishing? No problem, just need a glossy sample color to match too.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 7
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Do they ask important questions about your project? or just quote a price?
See our post on types of tub and tile damage to see what I mean.
For your convenience on basic bathtub refinishing jobs we can often provide pricing from several photos emailed to us. But should you have any unusual problems we’ll want to see your project first.
Or if you simply would like to meet us, to have any questions or concerns addressed please feel free to schedule your FREE IN-HOME-ESTIMATE.
Our estimators are skilled bathtub refinishers and salaried for no pressure advice on your bathtub refinishing project.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 8
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Let’s discuss the odor problem that so many complain about and what I recommend to avoid it during bathtub reglazing.
I highly recommend the 12” 3000 cubic foot per minute Vortex evacuation system with its poly vinyl hose, makes having your bathtub refinished, a much more enjoyable experience. By being extremely effective at odor removal.
*NOTE: Always be sure the refinisher ventilates to a window in a room away from the fixture being sprayed. Venting out of a bathroom window allows dust, pollen and debris to get into the finish.
Have a window and screen that can be opened prior to our visit in a near by room. Check that the window and screen actually opens please.
Avoid the box fan in the window refinisher and those that don’t ventilate at all.
Our employee took this photo of the tub refinisher’s equipment, hired by her apartment to do her tub. Which polluted her home for days forcing her to stay with a friend.
Next are the tub refinishers using an inadequate 8″ fan with cheap foil hose, that easily tears and pollutes your home.
Small fan and light weight flimsy hose is convenient for the tub refinisher to carry. Not good for protecting your home.
Which one would you want used in your home while having your bathtub refinished?
A competitors cheap fan and cheap hose equals stunk up home!
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 9
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Will your bathtub refinisher remove old caulking from around the entire tubs perimeter during the tub refinishing prep stage?
Old caulking should definitely be removed prior to bathtub refinishing. First, you should get fresh caulking and second, re-caulking after refinishing locks in the new coating around the bathtubs perimeter.
Should you have silicone caulking, it’s imperative that every trace is removed as silicone is a containment that causes a surface defect in the new coating called fish-eye.
Caulk removal is an important part of the bathtub refinishing process.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 10
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Do you have a previously refinished bathtub? If so the old failed coating must be completely removed.
This is exactly what many bath tub refinishing contractors will do. They’ll quote a price without asking any questions, come to your home only to find it has been refinished before.
These tub refinishers will not strip but merely sand around the peeling coating and refinish over the remainder. They’ll tell you stripping the old finish is included. These are the sham company’s you should avoid.
This is exactly like putting a new roof on rotting wood.
If the bathtub reglazing coating has failed it must be completely removed for a solid foundation for the new coating being applied. Professionally protective equipment and ventilation is needed. Adds 1 to 1.5 hours to the job.
For porcelain and enameled tubs a chemically stripper is used.
Acrylic or fiberglass tubs, stripper cannot be used and the failed coating must be completely removed by sanding. Very labor intensive.
Applying chemical stripper to a failed refinishing job.
Once the stripper has lifted the failed coating, it is carefully removed.
Bathtub refinishing companies that don’t ask questions about your project or quote one price for any job, generally will not strip off the old coating or do needed repairs. Thus making your job destined to fail.
NOTE: When a tub requires stripping we can’t tell what damage we’ll find under the old coating. Usually it’s a none issue, but occasionally requires an additional hour or two. We see some pretty beat up tubs.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 11
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Your tub surface should now get a deep cleaning. Then the surface is abraded to provide MECHANICAL ADHESION during bathtub refinishing.
Etching provides critical MECHANICAL ADHESION. Should either be skimped on would interfere with the adhesion.
Porcelain and enamel tubs are abraded with a mild HF acid as these surfaces can’t be abraded (roughened up) by sanding.
Acrylic and fiberglass tubs are easily abraded by sanding.
Super clean and abraded/etched are important steps in the bathtub refinishing preparation.
Some refinishing companies including the franchise’s won’t abrade or etch. And that’s their choice.
The shame is they tell lies about its use too hide the fact they are short changing the client of an important part of the preparation.
Ask any professional car or house painter if they would even consider painting without abrading/sanding… The answer; a resounding of course not, that wouldn’t be professional.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 12
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Drain overflow replacement not only makes your refinished tub look absolutely brand new, it will seriously extend the service life as well.
Here’s how we do it, when ordered with the job. Once the prep is done the drain overflow are removed and the exposed surface is prepped.
Once the bathtub is refinished and allow to cure at least overnight. New triple plated Watco drain and overflow are installed. Making your refinished tub look brand new.
The added benefit to you is the coating is sealed under the drain. This provides a super clean look vs. taping the drain off.
And since there is no coating edge around the drain for water to work at, the coating will last longer providing an extended service life.
NOTE: Access panel to tubs plumbing is required to check for leaks and in case anything breaks it can be easily repaired.
Imagine leaving a worn-out dog ugly drain in after refinishing!
When refinishing you tub it’s the perfect time to replace. Makes your refinished tub look brand new.
See our Drain Replacement page for why I highly recommend this valuable service during bathtub refinishing. Plus we have other options available when drain removal is not practical.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 13
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Once abraded or etched, rinsed and cleaned it’s time to repair any damaged areas before tub refinishing.
We expect to see some minor damage, should the damage be excessive you’ll be quoted a repair charge covering the added time to repair.
NOTE: When a tub requires stripping we can’t tell what damage we’ll find under the old coating. Usually it’s a none issue, but occasionally requires an additional hour or two. We see some pretty beat up tubs.
Damage is repair by using diamond sanders and marine grade fillers.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 14
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I highly recommend you get a Silane adhesion promoter treatment as a pre-primer during bathtub refinishing.
Thou the ones sold to refinishers by supply houses do provide a serious benefit and should absolutely be used. They don’t match TubPotion #8 Silane adhesion promoter in our testing.
TubPotion #8 was researched here at TubPotion labs and added to our arsenal back in 2005. Unlike other Silane’s on the market it is hydrolyzed making it completely stable and unaffected by atmospheric moisture.
Other Saline’s being used, start to gel and cure on contact with any moisture in the air, causing them to prematurely cure and lowering their effectiveness.
TubPotion #8 is a powerful adhesion promoter which provides unequaled CHEMICAL ADHESION for bathtub refinishing.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 15
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At this stage we recommend anti-slip measures to be applied to the tubs bottom. This provides a safety feature getting in and out of the tub for your family.
Anti-slip is optional but highly recommended. Our refinished tubs are super slick and we offer our TubPotion #7 round granular non-slip product free of charge.
TubPotion #7 contains perfectly round micro-spheres that provide traction without the sharp angular grit others use.
Our premium anti-slip is TubPotion #9. It provides traction without the use of any granules or grit.
It’s a factory looking texture that allows water under-foot a place to go, greatly reducing the likely hood of slipping.
Unlike other refinishing companies, we allow the use of bathmats with our bathtub refinishing coatings. But remember bathmats must be removed after use. Left down for long periods will cause problems.
Our TubPotion #7 granular anti-slip treatment is included at no extra charge.
TubPotion #9 our premium non-granular textured safety surface.
Both our non-slip products are easy to clean and offer a safe and secure feeling without any uncomfortableness on the backside for our clients who enjoy a good deep bath.
A recent client was scared of the non-slip as his bum started bleeding from the sharp grit used by a competitor on a past project. Always ask to see and feel a non-slip sample.
Protect & give Your family some love with TubPotion #9 EXCLUSIVE.
If bathmats are too be used remove after use and hang over tub rail to dry. This is the results of a cheap job and bathmat not removed.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 16
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Once the Saline adhesion promoter and non slip has set up, we recommend application a bonding primer before the application of the protective top coat.
Then we apply our protective top coat TubPotion #12 hybrid polyester-polyurethane to complete the bathtub refinishing process.
Your bathtub will look and feel like a brand new tub. Provide years of service, enhances your homes value and eliminates that hard to clean problem.
The TubPotion process is FAST-AFFORDABLE-HIGHLY EFFECTIVE solution over replacement or other refinishing options
The TubPotion process and polyester component adds durability, increases scratch and chemical resistance, providing exceptional service life and beauty you simply won’t find anywhere else.
Polyester primer and hybrid polyester protective top coat are applied.
TubPotion process when you want it done right.
To read more about TubPotion Bathtub Refinishing Coatings… Click here.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 17
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Now to complete your bathtub refinishing project, the masking is pulled and your bathtub is re-caulked.
We use a premium hybrid silicon caulk GE 7000 that won’t shrink, provides mildew protection and is paint-able unlike regular silicone caulk.
The GE 7000 is slightly off-white, while our TubPotion coatings are a very clean bright white. We cannot control the color of the caulk.
Please advise us if you require a bright white caulk and we’ll provide a pure silicon caulk. You just won’t receive the benefits of the GE 7000.
From start to finish the average bath tub refinishing project takes 3 to 4 hours and ready for service the next day. Our 24 hour turnaround makes the TubPotion process super convenient.
To avoid a return trip charge, most clients re-install the overflow plate themselves. It super easy by screwing in one or two screws.
This would be included if you have opted for drain removal and replacement during the bathtub refinishing.
Masking removed and your tub is re-caulked.
Your family can start enjoying your new looking tub in just one day.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 18
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Getting highly trained tub refinishing personal was one of our biggest problems.
The training other company’s were providing was nonexistent.
Completely frustrated by the applicants we where getting, I instituted our own IN-HOUSE-CERTIFICATION TRAINING COURSE.
A new tech must practice application, color matching, and damage repair to match our standards before being released for an apprenticeship with a seasoned master refinisher.
They’ll complete their bathtub refinishing training, working in real life situations. Once they have completed the bath refinishing training and released by their mentor, they’ll be assigned to our commercial division to perfect their art.
Our staff must complete in house certification training.
Looking forward to working with you.
Once they’ve proven their merit and have logged 100’s of jobs under their belts. They’ll be considered for our residential bathtub refinishing division.
You can count on the fact that our technicians are the best trained in the industry. Under my tutelage I strive to impart professionalism, ethics and pride in their work.
I would like to remind you, that we are human, make mistake, have a bad day as we all do. Rest assured we will put forth our best efforts till you are completely satisfied.
Bathtub Refinishing Tips # 19
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Do you believe in being environmentally responsible? We do…
All this makes for gallons upon gallons of waste material at the end of each week. Which includes different chemicals like urethane’s, polyesters and strong solvents.
I would bet that 99% of bath tub refinishing contractors throw this concoction in to the trash and into our landfills.
If they cared about our world, they would invest in a solvent distiller as we have. Several times a week we load our waste into this machine and 7 hours later, viola we have clean solvent that we use over and over again to keep our equipment clean.
We believe in being environmentally responsible by recycling our waste.
This is not only the responsible thing to do, it actually pays for itself by providing a steady supply of virtually FREE clean up solvent for us to maintain our equipment in tip top shape. Pretty cool hey… I think so!
Here is a Bathtub Refinishing COST CALCULATOR that I found to be pretty accurate. Just plug in your zip code to adjust for cost of living index. Opens in a new window.
Why not call or email us TODAY! We’d love to here about your bathroom refinishing project. Click To Contact Us.
Kantor Alior
After studying a number of of the weblog posts on your web site on bathroom renovations, I truly like your method of blogging. I bookmarked it and shall be checking again soon.
Hope you found bathtub refinishing tips helpful, post any questions in the comment section. Hey give us a LIKE!
After studying a number of of the weblog posts on your web site on bathroom renovations, I truly like your method of blogging. I bookmarked it and shall be checking again soon.
I had no idea that you should also get a new drain overflow when refinishing the tub. We have a pretty old bathtub in our son’s bathroom, and we have been considering having it cleaned up. I will have to look and see if there is a company nearby that can give us a quote.
It’s not maditory, but looks better, and adds durability to the project by having the coating under the drain and not taped off.
My wife and I have a really old tub in our home but can’t afford to replace it at the moment so we have been looking into reglazing it. I like how you mention removing the old caulking because I hadn’t considered doing that beforehand. I’ll have to refer to these when I start the reglazing process. Thanks for the helpful tips!
I like how you mentioned cleaning out the room before beginning a project. It makes sense to clear out the shower curtains, towels, and other items before the process starts. My brother recently moved into an older home that he’s been considering updating. It could be useful to him to think about these things before starting the bathtub restoration process.
once our caulk around the refinished tub gets old/moldy and we need to replace, how do we do that? normally I would use a heat gun and a scraper but I don’t want to damage the refinish paint job.
We cut the caulk close to the coating and finish with a sharpened plastic scraper being careful not to dig in.
I had my tub refinished a little over a month ago by JM Refinishing LLC (I DO NOT RECOMMEND THEM). The caulk that they used is cracking and separating around the entire perimeter of the tub. The company was refusing to fix the problem and told me to just have my husband recaulk everything. Is it safe to scrape out their old caulk or will that damage the new finish? The tub is magnetic so it is metallic, originally with porcelain glaze.
Hello, Kaimi the danger is damaging the new tub coating trying to get up the caulking. Caulking can do this for a couple of reasons one the void is too wide and or too deep, causing it to shrink and crack. Second you may have been served better by having it grouted vs. caulked. Second 100% Silicone caulking would likely not have split either. You could let it finish drying for another month and just recaulk over it. Using the old caulk as a base for the “overlay” of fresh caulk. If you do decide to cut it out, once you get close to the new coating, use a plastic putty knife to try and finish as not to cut into the new coating.
I just had my tub refinished and they taped over the drain. Wish I read your article before so I knew what to ask. I removed the tape after 24 hours, but now there is the raw edge around the drain perimeter. Can I caulk around that?
They should have pulled the tape so the coating would have relaxed and not left a raw edge, when refinishing with the drain in place. You could very carefully caulk with 100% silicone caulking, but that is not a great solution. Probably the best solution if possible, is to install a drain with an oversized flange to cover the raw edge. This would require the drain being pulled and shipping the part to us, or too a good plumbing store that carries Watco drains and bushings, to match up the drain threads with an oversized flange. Occasionally the plumbing breaks below the tub and an access panel in needed to repair or in some cases, going through the ceiling below the tub.
https://bathrenovationhq.com/services/bathtub-drain-replacement/
https://bathrenovationhq.com/services/bathtub-drain-replacement/bathtub-plumbing-access-panel/
Which bathmat is best?
If we pull up the 200 suction cups after every use… and stick it down again before every use…
it’s better than NOT removing it?
1000s of add/remove uses are better???? How can that be?
The consent moisture saturation along with the vacuum of the suction cup left down will destroy and brand new tub or a reglazed tub, whereas you’ll never see a tub damaged from suction cup mat removal. Now if the reglazed tub was done with inferior prep, coating etc, then it does not matter. The finish will fail regardless. Many tub companies say “No Bathmat Period” Our TubPotion coating will not be affected with mat removal. But Yes would be damage as a new tub would with constant vacuum, moisture pressure.
I am in the process of refinishing an old fiberglass shower stall. The kit I bought online has all those steps mentioned above. My concern is that my shower has a rubber nonskid surface from the factory. Not stickers. It looks as though it was poured on the entire bottom surface. Will the resurfacing stick to this? I have prepped it just as I have the shower walls by cleaning, etching, and sanding.
Hey Marti, without seeing your shower pan, I can’t say with any certainty what you’re working with.
We did our own DOT – can we lightly sand out a run mark without doing this all over again? One suggestion was to soak the fine sandpaper first??
It can be done, BUT the chance you’ll cut through is more than probable. Generally if we have a run, we will apply a couple more coats in that area to provide enough thickness to work the run out. The run “HEAD” is the most difficult. We will tape the run outline and gently go at it with 400 wet/dry and water using a rubber block till 90% gone then remove the tape and completely remove the run with 600 grit wet, again using the rubber block and then hit it with 1000 grit wet to remove the 600 sanding marks, then 1500 grit wet to remove the 1000 grit marks and then using a high speed buffer, and rubbing compound to remove the 1500 sanding marks and buff to a high gloss. Even with all this, one can still cut through, if not done with precision. As you can see, it takes the right equipment and materials along with technical know-how. I would suggest you live with it, unless doing it over is more to your liking. Regards Paul Burns
The blog was absolutely fantastic! Lots of great information which can be helpful in some or the other way. I have a very old tub in my bathroom. Very helpful and amazing idea. Will do the same in my bathtub.
Thanks for sharing, loving the post, thees tips can really help a guy out !
Great info! Looks like we share a lot of core values such as educating the customer about the job and preparation for it! A good cleaning of the tub is crucial for a successful refinishing!
Thanks, Mike appreciate your comment.
We just had our garden tub re-glazed. The next day we discovered a light overspray on the dressers in the bedroom. The bathroom door was closed when spraying, but the contractor’s machine was in the bedroom. What do you recommend to remove the overspray without damaging the wood finish?
You can try automotive medium rubbing compound, use a soft cloth and see if it will come off. May have to be sanded off and revarnished?
What is your experience with glass shower enclosures being installed on a refinished tub? We were planning on swapping our curtain with a frameless sliding glass door (no track – one side is fixed and the other slides along a top rail and doesn’t touch the tub). The contractor who refinished our tub here in Chicago has advised against it, suggesting water will collect along the fixed panel and damage the finish, but I would love a second opinion.
I would have no problem with our coatings, doing this. I can’t advise you, not knowing what or how the tub was done. Your refinisher doesn’t have much confidence in his product. If you’d still like to do this, perhaps just wipe away any water that may be sitting there.
Very helpful info, thank you. I had our clawfoot tub reglazed 8 years ago, but there are some chips and discoloration stains, so I’d like it reglazed. I’m also planning to have the current floor tile replaced, and the walls repainted. In what order should I do those 3 projects? — reglaze tub, replace floor tiles, paint walls? Thank you!
You don’t mention whether you plan to move the clawfoot tub from the bathroom? If removing I would do the wall painting, then floor and then the tub. If the tub stay’s in place how do you plan on tiling? as if the tub is raised by the new tile your plumbing will need to be lengthened. I would consider doing the floor, then tub and then walls.
After reading this I’m disappointed your company doesn’t service Southeastern Florida. You say that to properly refinish a tub all the old caulking should be removed. We are renovating our bathroom currently with all new tile that should be finished this week. Would it be beneficial to ask the tile company to wait and hold off on grouting and caulking the tile until after the tub is refinished?
First, I don’t understand why you didn’t replace the tub, since the tile is down. With a good grout job the tub really doesn’t need to be caulked and there’s a chance the grout job may damage the tub refinish, if workers are not careful. So I let the tile people finish, then refinish the tub. It could go either way.
Thank you for your help. I would have loved to replace the tub but it’s a cast iron tub from the 50s that is only 58in wide. The cost to find an alternative in such a unique size or having it removed didn’t seem worth it.